Influencer vs. Industry: How Fashion Shows Are Changing in the Age of Instagram

Fenia
5 min readSep 21, 2024

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For decades, fashion weeks were the domain of seasoned fashion critics, industry insiders, and established journalists whose reviews could make or break a designer’s career. But in the age of Instagram, the balance of power is shifting. Social media influencers, with their massive followings and instant access to audiences, are increasingly occupying the front rows at major fashion shows. As influencers gain prominence, traditional fashion critics are being edged out, raising important questions about how this shift will reshape the industry.

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The Rise of the Influencer Front Row

The sight of influencers snapping selfies from the front row has become a staple of fashion weeks around the world. Armed with smartphones and a legion of followers, influencers wield considerable power, often reaching millions of people in a matter of seconds with a single post. Fashion houses have recognized their value, inviting influencers not just for their coverage but for the brand awareness they generate among younger, more digitally engaged audiences.

Unlike traditional journalists, whose critiques were often carefully considered and published days after a show, influencers offer instant access to collections, presenting their followers with an unfiltered (and usually favorable) view of new designs. The immediacy of their content is part of the appeal: why wait for a review in a magazine or newspaper when you can see the collection on Instagram Stories as it happens?

Fashion Critics vs. Influencers: A Battle for Relevance?

The growing influence of social media personalities raises the question: are influencers overshadowing traditional fashion critics? In some ways, the answer is yes. Influencers’ large followings give them unparalleled reach, while critics’ in-depth, often nuanced commentary can seem out of step in a world that favors bite-sized, shareable content.

However, the depth of analysis offered by veteran critics remains valuable. They provide context, history, and an understanding of fashion as an art form — something influencers don’t always prioritize. A critic may break down a collection in terms of craftsmanship, reference points, or its place in the designer’s body of work, while influencers tend to focus on immediate visual appeal, branding, and trendworthiness.

Yet, it’s undeniable that in the age of Instagram, influencers have an outsized impact. Brands increasingly cater to them, knowing that a well-placed post or story can lead to sales spikes and online buzz. Some designers now prioritize Instagram-friendly looks — pieces that pop on camera and go viral instantly. For fashion critics who have long valued innovation, craftsmanship, and storytelling, this can feel like the commodification of an art form once revered for its complexity.

Fall 2024 Menswear Fashion shows | Vogue

Democratization or Dilution?

On one hand, the rise of influencers can be seen as a democratizing force. Fashion, once an exclusive world, has been opened up to a wider audience. Influencers make fashion feel more accessible, inviting their followers into a world that was previously off-limits to the average consumer. Their posts provide behind-the-scenes glimpses, personal styling tips, and real-time interactions that make fashion feel less like a closed-off elite circle and more like a participatory experience.

On the other hand, critics argue that this democratization has come at the cost of substance. When influencers dominate the conversation, the focus can shift from the artistry of the clothes to how they perform on social media. Some designers now cater to this demand for “Instagrammable” moments, creating flashy pieces designed to generate likes and shares rather than push the boundaries of fashion.

This isn’t to say that influencers can’t offer meaningful insight. Some influencers, particularly those with fashion or design backgrounds, have grown into roles that blend their style with informed critique. However, many simply act as marketers, promoting products for the sake of their brand deals, leaving little room for genuine fashion criticism.

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The Future of Fashion Media

As the fashion industry continues to evolve, the relationship between influencers and traditional journalists will likely remain in flux. Critics still hold sway in high-fashion circles, where a detailed review in Vogue or The New York Times carries significant weight. But for the average consumer, influencers are now the gatekeepers of fashion. They control the conversation, set trends, and determine what is “in” or “out” with a simple post.

The fashion media landscape is becoming a hybrid model. Established publications are increasingly partnering with influencers, integrating their voices into their coverage to stay relevant. At the same time, influencers are maturing, with some evolving into full-fledged fashion commentators with their own distinctive takes.

Supermodels grace Kim Jones’ Fendi front-row during Milan Fashion Week | The Independent

In the long run, the coexistence of influencers and critics may actually benefit the industry. While influencers bring fashion to the masses, critics maintain the depth and integrity of fashion as an art form. Together, they offer different but complementary perspectives, serving both the mainstream and high-fashion audiences.

The growing influence of social media influencers has undeniably changed the dynamics of fashion shows and the industry at large. As they overshadow traditional fashion critics, the lines between marketing, entertainment, and genuine critique blur. Whether this shift represents a democratization of fashion or a dilution of its artistry is still up for debate.

What’s clear, however, is that influencers are here to stay, and their role in shaping the future of fashion will only continue to grow. How they and traditional critics navigate this new landscape will determine the future direction of fashion media — and the industry itself.

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All images used in this content are the property of their respective owners. I do not claim ownership of any images unless stated otherwise. Images are used for illustrative purposes only, and full credit goes to the original creators and copyright holders. If you are the copyright owner of any image and would like it removed or properly credited, please contact me, and I will promptly address the matter.

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Fenia
Fenia

Written by Fenia

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I am currently studying History of Art at the University of Oxford and publishing my writings here.

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